Addressing the dress code conundrum

We’re a pretty casual bunch, us Saffas. Give us a cold beer and a braai to stand around, and we’re supremely content. This is not to say we don’t clean up nicely. Given half the chance, we will grab the opportunity to don our Sunday best and squeak our takkies on any dance floor. Weddings and other occasions provide the perfect opportunity to celebrate love and life while dressing up a bit and enjoying a convivial evening surrounded by friends and family. It can also pose a set of challenges in navigating the proper dress codes.

I thought I would shed light on the appropriate dress code for weddings and other formal festive occasions as the year draws to a jubilant end and the start of balmy wedding season, which generally runs from September to December here in the southern hemisphere.

I will also give you some clear-cut definitions of the different dress code requests you’d likely receive by way of invitation.

Views on dressing well and style can be incredibly subjective. I’m generally wary of imposing my opinion on others. Still, I’m going to go out on a limb and plainly state that shorts, a bow tie with suspenders with plakkies will never be the appropriate dress code for a wedding or other formal events. On more than one occasion, I’ve had the misfortune of witnessing men arriving to important formal events grossly underdressed. Adhering to the stipulated dress code on an invite is not just good manners but also ensures that, as a guest, you don’t stick out for the wrong reasons — upstaging your host is pompous.

In my opinion, it’s not the lack of decorum or effort that we owe to poorly dressed guests, but rather the difficulty in deciphering the various dress codes. We are certainly not helped by the fact that unlike metropolises such as New York, London, and Hong Kong, which have clearly defined dress codes for business and formal events, we tend to skirt around these parameters. As a result, the lines are blurred regarding suitable outfit choices.

A caveat and crucial note to consider. The following list, as well as these ramblings, reflect a western cultural perspective. It is not my intention to assert that this is the gold standard for dressing well, which would be myopic, to say the least. Every culture has a traditional dress code for auspicious events that portrays a particular level of decorum and reflects a rich, often colourful heritage. We need only look at the incredibly diverse culture of this country to celebrate traditional dress. Having said that, most men adhere to a primarily western dress sense that has remained unchanged since the 1800s. A shirt to cover the chest and torso, trousers to cover the legs with jackets and knitwear as secondary coverings.

Dress code: white tie

White tie is considered the most formal attire for men and the epitome of elegance. Traditional to the hilt, the dress code is reserved for the most prestigious evening occasions, such as balls and galas. The ensemble consists of a hand-tied white bow tie in silk or satin. A black peak lapel tailcoat with pleated matching trousers, worn over a stiff white shirt with studs for buttons and a low-cut white waistcoat that allow the shirt to be shown.

On the feet, black leather patent opera pumps with grosgrain ribbons are traditionally worn along with black silk socks. A top hat, white gloves, white lapel boutonnière and walking cane, are acceptable accessories. A slight variation to this outfit for day events is the morning suit. Black trousers are swapped out for grey stripes, and a light-coloured waistcoat is worn with a tie.

Dress code: black tie

Technically considered less formal than its white-tie counterpart, black tie, commonly referred to as the tuxedo, is possibly the most accessible formal dress for modern men. Any invite that refers to black tie dress is referring to guests arriving in tuxedos. Introduced in about 1888, the dinner jacket got its name from Tuxedo Park, an area in the state of New York.

The jacket in a traditional single-button stance, with satin-covered lapels in either a peak or shawl style, is worn with a white shirt, black bow tie, a cummerbund with high waist trousers with a decorative grosgrain stripe running down the outer side seam. Plain black leather or patent leather shoes are worn. Modern day iterations of the tuxedo present the jacket in a double breasted button configuration and include midnight blue and off-white as colour variations and fabrics such as brocade and velvet — which takes its direction from a smoking jacket.

Dress code: business formal

A dress code that could be considered stoic. It conjures images of uniformity and confidence, all the elements you hope to exude in business. You are not likely to receive an invite to a social gathering with the dress code being business formal. Still, it is important to make a distinction between the various dress codes.

The two-piece worsted wool suit in charcoal, navy and black is de rigueur. Shirts are generally in pale shades, with the tie providing interest in colour and pattern. Leather lace up oxfords, brogues or loafers in black and brown are acceptable footwear.  

Dress code: smart casual

Dressed down but considered. The least formal events still call for you to dress well, for example, a birthday dinner or a date. If you’re unsure about an event’s dress code, it’s wise to err on the side of caution and wear a jacket. It never ceases to amaze me how a simple jacket can elevate a rig.

A blazer worn with light coloured trousers in cotton twill, linen or denim. Shirt options include buttoned down oxford cloth, chambray and linen. Suede loafers keep the silhouette smart, and some fun socks are fun.