A stroke of serendipity

It’ s a Wednesday evening, the first nip of autumn is in the air, and I find myself walking up to the converted Pyotts silo at The Old Biscuit Mill in Cape Town, where chef Luke Dale Roberts has opened a swanky and sexy new cocktail and canapé lounge, Salon Pot Luck. It’s a building with which I’m familiar, given my numerous visits to — and outstanding meals at — The Pot Luck Club, which sits in a glass box at the very top.

However, tonight I’m here for the opening service of the latest venture by the acclaimed Dale Roberts, who put not only The Old Biscuit Mill but also Woodstock on the culinary map when he first opened The Test Kitchen in the precinct. The ever-dynamic chef is in his element at Salon. Here he has created a conceptual new offering that merges his love of creative cocktails and fine wine with an incredibly clever menu of canapés inspired by French patisserie.

The journey begins on the first floor, where a brass-clad archway leads into an intimate space. The bones of the silo have been retained, creating pockets of seating areas backed by an elegant bar and banquettes. Maurice Paliaga’s design merges mid-century furnishings with art-deco design and modern scaling to create a breathtaking setting. “In keeping with the theme of evolution, our initial conversations went around repurposing, recycling, and using local artisans to create an experience in an old office space five floors below The Pot Luck Club,” explains Paliaga.

The idea is for Salon to be a “library” of sorts that guests can visit before or after dining at The Pot Luck Club, while also be operating as a stand-alone destination. “The menu will be inspired by traditional French pastries, reinvented in our unique way,” says Dale Roberts.

I’ve always been a fan of Dale Roberts’s cocktails, which are packed with punchy and memorable flavours. At Salon, the chilli-and-pineapple libation with a vanilla-vodka base is the winner, while the blueberry-and-kiwi margaritas, grapefruit martinis, and cherry cosmopolitans aren’t to be missed either. The menu draws heavily on French pastry techniques to create a stunning array of savoury dishes.

As it’s a Dale Roberts establishment, one would be remiss not to start with the oysters, available with a trio of accoutrements — white mignonette and caviar, nam jim dipping sauce, and a Mexican salsa. Then opt for a choice of tartares, with the beef served with a pickled red-onion dressing and a horseradish aioli, and the tuna with olive dressing, mimosa egg yolk, and charred green beans, before moving on to a selection of short-crust tartlets. Each crust is flavoured according to its filling. The lobster is served with a subtle Thai dressing and coconut yoghurt, while the smoked snoek comes with a curried hollandaise and XO sauce, with compressed green apple adding texture.

The chicken-liver quiche is equally delectable, the pâté topped with morel duxelles, truffle, and an asparagus-and-pea espuma. It’s decadence in every mouthful. The star of the show is the Black Forest gateau. Indulgent layers of foie gras, sour cherry, and hibiscus jelly, with a truffle-and-chicken-liver cream, top a vanilla porcini base, completed with a 100% cocoa-chocolate disc. The rich and creamy confection, served with a golden brioche bun, delivers taste and texture in abundance.

• From the April edition of Wanted, 2023.