A new reason to head to Indo

Bali is — or perhaps was — a truly beautiful destination. One of the most remarkable islands in Southeast Asia, it’s little wonder that upwards of six million tourists a year (pre-pandemic at least) flock to the island. If you’re after warm local hospitality, remarkable beaches and serene escapes, Bali is for you.

Or, perhaps was.

The island has become a victim of its own success, with the impact of over-tourism now keenly felt. Local authorities are becoming so fed up with the growing influx of badly behaved tourists that they have floated plans to ban tourists from renting motorbikes, are mulling imposing a quota for foreign visitors, and even debated charging up to $100 for entry to Bali. The ‘island of the gods’, it seems, has lost its faith in the unchecked benefits of tourism.

But travellers also seem to forget that Bali is just one of the 17,000-or-so islands that make up Indonesia. And it’s not hard to find untrampled corners of the country, where the beaches remain pristine and there’s a hard-won focus on inclusive tourism that enriches, not obscures, local culture, heritage and tradition.

Places like Cap Karoso — a member of the Design Hotels network — which opened earlier this year on the island of Sumbawa. It’s just an hour’s flight from Bali, but a world apart from the clogged streets of Kuta or Seminyak.

Cap Karoso is the creation of two globetrotting ethically minded French travellers, who have created a remarkable sustainability-focused boutique resort that deftly incorporates local custom and design into an eco-haven of 47 rooms and 20 villas.

Strung out along Karoso beach, with lush gardens and living roofs ensuring it blends into the landscape, here the suites are filled with artworks by emerging Indonesian and international artists, while shelves feature hand-carved statues by local artisans. There are open-air tubs and private decks and all the usual trappings of luxury, but done with a keen eye for the intersection of inclusion and luxury. Villas come with plunge pools and open-air kitchens, while bespoke furnishings are of locally sourced rattan, bamboo, and teak. Furniture designs come from the likes of Sarah Ellison, fabrics are by Pierre Frey, and bespoke room fragrances and amenities are the work of Grasse-based perfumer Gerard Gatti.

Founders Fabrice and Evguenia Ivara first arrived here on holiday in 2017 and “we fell in love with the island and got this idea of creating a place for like-minded travellers, where the wildness and authenticity of Sumba would encounter the sophistication of a certain lifestyle that we both enjoy,” says Evguenia. “During the work on Cap Karoso, we have crossed paths with a range of incredible professionals, from designers to farmers... each of them brought a part of their soul into this project.”

That spirit of collaboration is carefully woven into the entire Cap Karoso experience, from the ancestral blessings sought from the local community before the first brick had been laid, to the way Marapu culture has been infused into myriad aspects of the experience. Guests can surf, swim and snorkel, but also partake in traditional fishing and beach rides on indigenous Sumbanese sandalwood ponies.

Much of their produce comes from the three-hectare gardens, another collaboration between Cap Karoso and the community. Beyond the gardens, guests are encouraged to head out to sea on traditional fishing outings or participate in ikat weaving and natural dyeing workshops.

It’s all a far cry from the rowdy Aussies and happy hour specials of Seminyak. The overtourism that has stripped Bali of so much character and charm is anathema on Sumbawa. It’s not like Bali as it was before — it’s even better.