Forget the plasticky, sun-drenched dreams of Hollywood: Los Angeles has a welter of dining, drinking and shopping options that’ll delight even the most 
cultured of gourmands.


BUY

SHINOLA

It’s impossible to leave this store without splurging, whether on retro-styled 
watches, handsome notebooks or a sturdy leather satchel – all handmade in Detroit. 3515 Sunset Blvd

TORTOISE GENERAL STORE

Take a stroll down Abbot Kinney Boulevard, which is crammed with original boutiques. My favourite, Tortoise, is a temple to Japanese products – crafted crockery, quirky fabrics and more. 1208 Abbot Kinney Blvd

Tortoise General Store
Tortoise General Store

BRENTWOOD COUNTRY MART

An elegantly grownup complex of shops and restaurants. Try Union-made for jeans or James Perse for wardrobe classics. Then tuck into Farmshop’s fresh “California-inspired” fare, or take something away from its bakery and deli.
225 26th St, Santa Monica

Brentwood Country Mart
Brentwood Country Mart

DRINK

THE STANDARD

Have a Golden State IPA and loll on the rooftop, taking in Downtown skyscraper views at this sexy mid-century modern hotel. 550 South Flower St

COMMISSARY

The Line Hotel might be self-consciously hip but its greenhouse quaffing spot, Commissary, is worth a visit: not only is it next to a pool, but the food and drinks menu was created by one of LA’s greatest chefs, Roy Choi.
3515 Wilshire Blvd

Commissary greenhouse and food
Commissary greenhouse and food

COLE’S

This moodily lit haunt is ostensibly LA’s oldest bar and the originator of the meaty French Dip. Sink into a booth and enjoy a Moscow Mule in a copper mug. 118 E 6th St


EAT

FORAGE

Locally sourced ingredients are transformed into hearty, honest dishes at this sublimely laidback spot. Lunch and dinner menus change daily.
3823 W Sunset Blvd

SQIRL

The eggy all-day breakfasts at this neighbourhood favourite in Silverlake are awesome, but it’s really the homemade jam that has made it legendary city-wide. Try the blueberry and lemon jam on brioche ricotta toast.
720 North Virgil Ave

GUELAGUETZA

This unpretentious Oaxacan family-owned restaurant in Koreatown won a James Beard Award last year; taste the mole and you’ll understand why. Enjoy with lashings of mezcal, tequila’s smoky grown-up sibling. 
3014 West Olympic Blvd

GRAND CENTRAL MARKET

Foodie paradise: from Mexican street food to oysters and artisanal ice cream. 317 South Broadway

GJELINA

The best breakfast spot in Venice Beach. Try the chilli oven-baked eggs in a pan with a side of sizzling bacon. Then come back for lunch. And for dinner. 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd


TURNING PAGES

With Raymond Chandler, Christopher Isherwood and other notable authors 
having once called it home, LA is a lot more literary than you think, with a host of thriving bookstores and an exquisite art-deco public library downtown.

1. The Last Bookstore has more than 250 000 new and old titles. lastbookstorela.com

2. Diesel has a small but smart selection of literary reads dieselbookstore.com

3. Stories – a colourful community hub befitting its vibrant Echo Park setting. storiesla.com

4. Hennessey + Ingalls in Santa Monica has a mouth-watering range of art books while round the corner, the local multi-storeyed Barnes & Noble branch has the best magazine rack for miles. hennesseyingalls.com; barnesandnoble.com

The Last Bookstore
The Last Bookstore
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