The skinfication of hair

Hair, for its simple structural makeup, sure can rile up complicated emotions usually linked to social, political and sometimes religious perceptions. For a society so focused on hair, it is a wonder how little the average person knows about it. A few years ago, skin became a big topic in Beauty, converting many makeup enthusiasts into #skinfirst comrades. We all became versed on the biology of skin, the different types and ailments and most importantly, the ingredients we most needed to optimize our skin’s wellness.

It has taken some time, but it may be that we are finally seeing the skinfication of hair. Looking beyond the 4c hair chart, product developers are considering the hair follicle, the root bulb as well as the scalp as points of focus for healthy, nourished hair. We are in fact seeing skincare ingredients being incorporated into haircare products.

All hair is made up of a strong protein called keratin. Each strand is anchored into the skin by a hair follicle (pore). Right at the bottom of the follicle is a hair bulb containing living cells that divide and grow out to build the shaft of the hair. Usually though, general hair products we use regularly like shampoo and conditioner don’t do much to stimulate the hair follicle, which is mainly responsible for healthy hair.

Thanks to the increase of stress-related hair loss and other forms of hair loss like traction alopecia and male/female pattern baldness among several others, we are now seeing more innovation when it comes to haircare formulations and the way we treat our hair. Much like how revolutionary serums were as treatment products that penetrate deeper than the large molecule moisturizer, scalp serums/treatments today are being formulated with active ingredients to treat the scalp (a healthy scalp is crucial to healthy hair) and stimulate the hair follicle to encourage healthy growth. Our hair follicles are able to degenerate and regenerate, meaning once your hair follicle becomes damaged or stops operating optimally, it can be revived to start producing health hair again. This is usually seen in cases of alopecia areata or traction alopecia.

We know that different hair texture types need different ingredients, however there are some ingredients that apply to all. These are ingredients that focus on the scalp, which is essentially skin. It therefore makes a lot of sense for us to seek active, effective, tried, tested, and loved skincare ingredients to get our scalp to its healthiest point.

Here are 3 that we recommend for a healthy scalp, which should result in the healthiest version of your hair:

1. Amino acids (Cysteine)

Amino acids are crucial protein building blocks. Out of the 22 amino acids scientists have discovered, nine of them cannot be synthesized by the body. For hair growth, Cysteine is the go-to amino acid as it is an antioxidant that protects the hair from sun damage and free radicals. It also provides hair cells with Sulphur, making the hair thicker, stronger and less susceptible to breakage. Cysteine can also be consumed via foods like yoghurt, broccoli, chicken, wheat germ and brussels sprouts.

Recommended product: Kiehl’s Amino Acid Conditioner

2. Hyaluronic Acid (HA)

A well-known must for thriving skin, hyaluronic acid, is an incredible hydration booster. It is a humectant (absorbs and retains moisture), which is important for keeping hair soft, bouncy and dandruff-free as the scalp is well-balanced. HA is effective on all hair types, but the way it is used for each hair type will vary.

Thin, straight hair needs it less frequently than thicker, drier curls/coils. Massage into the scalp or apply on the actual hair strand, focusing on the mid-tip end of the strand to avoid breakage and maintain moisture and softness.

Recommended product: Kerastase Chronologiste Heat Protecting Leave-In Treatment (for dry and brittle hair.)

3. Biotin (vitamin B)

Biotin is a water-soluble vitamin B ingredient necessary for the skin to produce keratin. Beyond healthy hair, Biotin is also great for nails and skin. It is effective as a treatment for healthy hair whether taken orally as a supplement or applied directly into hair via hair products that contain it as an active ingredient.

Recommended product: Oribe Gold Lust Repair Restore Shampoo