Go city-hopping from Paris to New York in search of memorable breads

I’ve never met a bread I didn’t like. Living the life Parisienne, with a clutch of baguettes under one arm as I stroll back to my apartment in the 14th arrondissement? Memorable. The pillowy taste of still-warm pao bought from a bicycle vendor on a Mozambican beach? Life-saving. Salmon lox on fresh bagels handed across the counter at one of New York’s most storied delicatessens? You betcha. Though some may travel the world ticking off art galleries, boutiques or ball games, I tend to be led by my stomach.

And while fine dining can be lovely, there are few better ways to tap into the soul of a city than to join the queue for its daily staple. On America’s west coast that could mean a farmer’s market and the tangy taste of sourdough. Perhaps the piping-hot pitas from an oven in Istanbul. In Belgium last year I discovered crusty pistolets, a city staple that speaks to the DNA of the destination. With the simple act of breaking bread — mine filled with the classic filling of Américain cressonnette — I was able to feel like a local for one brief moment.

And isn’t that part of why we travel? To tap into the rhythms of a place. Even those as every day — perhaps mundane for the locals — as buying one’s daily bread? To swap our own every day for that of other people and places? And I’m not even close to being done. I’m yet to savour the sweet charms of a New Orleans beignet (OK, it’s more doughnut than bread) or the fragrant filling of a banh mi on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City.

For thousands of visitors to Paris over the past few months, Maison Louvard was the place to be. For it was Monsieur Louvard who created the “Crookie”: the cross-baked creation fusing a croissant and (usually chocolate chip) cookie dough. Following in the wake of the cronut, cruffin and croaf, the “crookie” has drawn thousands of fans to Louvard’s bakery in the Opéra district of Paris each day.

Not interested? Add the rainbow-coloured delights of Ladurée to your hit list. Since 1862 Ladurée has been as famous in Paris for its macarons as its delicate patisserie. The brand has grown to a range of stores, but the cafe on the Champs-Élysées remains the signature experience. But who has time to battle the crowds of Paris as it hosts the Olympics this summer?

Village bakery

Perhaps instead cast your appetite south and west to Lisbon, where Confeitaria Nacional has been an institution in the city since 1829. Set within a neoclassical façade on Praça da Figueira, this historic patisserie serves up a journey back in time alongside a tempting array of pastéis de nata, biscuits and Portuguese pastries. Wander up the winding staircase and you’ll find a charming cafe and a menu of Portuguese staples.

In England, the village bakery is always a delight, even if that “village” is on a high street in the heart of a city suburb. Places like Toad Bakery in Camberwell, in the southeast, are loved by locals and worth seeking out if you’re a visitor. Look out for their sourdough bread, all baked with British-grown sustainably farmed grain. Of course, you won’t be sorry for bagging a few of their chocolatines, cinnamon buns and or danishes either.

Can’t be bothered to get out to Camberwell? Borough Market on the South Bank is your friend. There’s a choice of bakeries here, but it’s hard not to love Bread Ahead. If you find yourself inspired by their superb range of bakes, they also run baking workshops for enthusiastic amateurs.

As in London, New York is blessed with no end of fine bakeries. Of course, there’s always Dominique Ansel, (in) famous for inventing the cronut, but for classic breads to remember seek out She Wolf. With a focus on using grains from the state of New York, the array of loaves is impressive, from sourdough to sprouted rye to a polenta “pullman”. For a little more adventure, with some effort, you can also tap into bakeries with a Latin American slant (hello Pilar Cuban) or Taiwanese-American tastes (try Win Son).

New Orleans is another city that’s a proverbial melting pot of cultures, and that is reflected in its bakeries too. While you’ll find beignets across the city, in the colourful Marigny neighbourhood it’s worth wending your way to the AYU Bakehouse.

Opened in 2022 by Kelly Jacques and Samantha Weiss, AYU — pronounced like “bayou” — combines the pair’s diverse backgrounds with the flavours of the “Big Easy” through the artistry and science of baking. Think chocolate babka knots and pandan-infused kaya buns alongside muffuletta breadsticks and egg-filled croissants. Little wonder it’s been flagged as one of the most creative bakeries in the US. Time to add another city to my list …