Fashion tribes: Finding your kind: Part 1

Well suited

David Harris – Tailor and creative director at David Harris Custom Made (32)

Devotees of the intricate art of suiting — from finance bros to the peacocks of Les Sapeurs namaSwenka — may have been concerned about the prospects of a post-pandemic casualisation of menswear — a time when they had to consign their suits to the back of the wardrobe while adjusting to overshirts and versatile “couch-to-after-work-drinks” trousers. They needn’t have worried. Nearly five years after our first Family Meeting, suits are back on the menu, albeit with roomier fits and boxier silhouettes reflective of the post-slim-fit era. “Our customers are certainly experimenting,” says tailor David Harris.

“We make many different styles of suits, through understanding the nuances of each different fit. On any given week we are cutting jackets that are totally unstructured, made from lightweight fabrics, to jackets with a strong silhouette and decent padding.”

As an art dealer and auctioneer earlier in his career, Harris lived in suits, obsessing over the perfect fit. After discovering the world of custom tailoring, he dived into apprentice mode, learning under various tailors. Years later, he is still as obsessive as ever.

“I have always had a passion and love for menswear [and] would describe my style as a celebration of menswear. I’m my happiest when I’m wearing a beautifully cut suit that fits me the way I like it to fit, made from high-quality fabrics.” Add to that some lapel detailing on jackets or custom waistbands on trousers and you have subtle details that set you apart from the off-the-rack guy. “I know that, when I purchase a high-quality fabric and make a suit out of it, I am going to feel incredible when I wear it. Putting thought into what you wear, regardless of the different styles you can subscribe to, is an empowering experience. This feeling far outweighs the cost of the clothing.” davidharris.co.za

Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses, R4 860, Sunglass Hut

Striped blazer, R56 000; double-breasted waistcoat, R29 000; silk tie, R4 500, all Dolce & Gabbana

Cotton shirt, R3 000, David Harris

Tudor Black Bay 36 watch on steel bracelet, R74 200, Charles Greig

Striped trousers, R22 250; leather loafers, R19 000, both Dolce & Gabbana

The eternal Ivy

Katlego Makube – Businessman (44)

A blend of comfort, quality, subtlety, and tradition, the Ivy League aesthetic was first seen in the 1920s at elite US universities and later on icons such as Steve McQueen and JFK. The style was to precede the “preppy” look and has now emerged as one of the internet’s sartorial fixations: “old-money style” (or that term that shall not be mentioned, implying a luxury that does not scream). “The Ivy style is a refined, classic look that exudes an air of understated elegance. It’s a blend of comfort and formality, with a focus on quality and heritage in clothing choices,” says Katlego Makube, a businessman whose style of dress is an inheritance.

“The Ivy League style was passed down to me by my father, who embraced it in the 1960s, influenced by American expatriates, cultural icons, and the aesthetics of Blue Note jazz LP cover art. I was drawn to the look and sense of prestige it conveyed, and I've been passionate about it ever since.” Makube, like others in his orbit, views the Ivy aesthetic as “more than just a style; it’s a way of life”, extending its reach beyond the closet. This philosophy permeates all culture, which is why Ivy Leaguers like Makube are also keen audiophiles record collectors, art fundis, and epicureans. “It’s about valuing quality, heritage, and preservation, not just in clothing but in all aspects of life. It’s about taking pride in one’s appearance and carrying oneself with confidence and sophistication. It’s a mindset that prioritises tradition, elegance, and refinement.” @jazzaudiophile  

Wide-brim hat; round sunglasses; multi-coloured blazer; cotton shirt, all model’s own

Rolex GMT-Master II watch on Oystersteel bracelet, R204 700, Charles Greig

Cotton trousers; suede brogues, both model’s own

Thrifty blues 

Rodreck Mudzengerere - Entrepreneur and owner of Ifuku vintage store (39)

Just under three years ago, you would have struggled to find anyone in Joburg who knew the meaning of the word ifuku. While there are interesting meanings carried by the word in several languages, it is the Japanese meaning (clothes) that interested Rodreck Mudzengerere before he opened what has become Jozi’s premier vintage and denim store, carrying everything from rare Levi’s and Nudie Jeans to reclaimed Gucci boots and vintage Paul Smith suits.

While denim is the dialect at Ifuku, vintage is the broader vernacular. “The art of ifuku, through thrift, is to bring back memories; [unearth] exclusiveness; and share stories about the rare pieces we find and the joy [that comes with that],” says Mudzengerere, who thrifted his first pair of jeans as a 12-year-old in Zimbabwe.

Even at that age he had an inkling about craft and quality materials and his pre-vintage pursuits — purveyor of wire art and barista extraordinaire at the famed Father Coffee — dished out many clues to this. “I got into Japanese style by appreciating their craftsmanship and dedication — I adore the way they take time with their work. Ifuku has... brought together people who appreciate quality, people who love jazz, people who understand style.” ifuku.co.za

Flat hat, model's own

Denim jacket, R45 000

Denim trousers, POR, both Dolce & Gabbanna

Suede boots, model's own 

Stockists: 

Charles Greig charlesgreig.co.za

Dolce & Gabbana dolcegabbana.com 

David Harris davidharris.co.za

Peek into the making of our fashion story. Part 2 coming soon: 

From the June edition of Wanted, 2024.