Of place and territory

Samkelo Boyde Xaba launched his contemporary luxury clothing brand, Boyde in 2017 and won SA Fashion Week’s Scouting Menswear competition in 2020. His design is influenced by geometric modernism, industrial and historical architecture and cultural heritage.

With his new collection, Deterritorialization Autumn/Winter 2025 — which debuted at New York Fashion Week — he explores apartheid postcolonial architecture, delving into the politics and social control of the era. Deterritorialisation refers to the process of mapping indigenous people out of their home territories into confined spaces. He tells us more.  

What prompted the decision to explore “Deterritorialization” as a theme? 

We wanted to explore the idea of how hostels and institutionalised racial segregation came about in SA — and most importantly, how those living settlements influenced the choice of dress in people between 1948 and the early 1990s.

What did the exploration and process reveal? 

The process revealed how the influence of tailoring was introduced to South African natives. The colonisers were usually suited in bespoke tailored suits and that had an influence in the choice of dress of South African men. Eventually, the early 1980s saw South Africans express their sense of style in European inspired pinstripe suits and bespoke silhouettes.

How is the theme translated into your tailoring and design?  

The “Deterritorialization” collection colour palette is derived from early bespoke suit styles during the apartheid era. We developed fabrics that incorporate the Boyde monogram logo in a pinstripe suiting fabric to mimic the pinstripe influence.

What is the importance of working with wool and mohair? 

Wool and mohair add smoothness and a lustrous appearance to garments. It is important to evaluate and understand the production processes involved for them to result into a final product. SA is one of the world’s top wool producing countries. The Eastern Cape is responsible for wool shearing, scouting, sorting, combing, dyeing and spinning before being distributed to other parts of the world.

What is your design ethos?

Boyde maintains an unwavering commitment to producing high-quality, sustainable fashion. Simplicity is at the core of Boyde’s designs, reflecting a pared-down minimalism that delivers both exceptional quality and unmatched comfort. This design philosophy aligns seamlessly with the brand’s commitment to timeless style and sustainability.