London Fashion Week AW17

The feminine mystique

Molly Goddard is known for her oversized prom dresses with attitude in ruffled neon and pastel tulle, and she's likely to unleash her inner (punk) princess again this week. She's also been gathering critical acclaim, winning the British Emerging Talent award at the Fashion Awards in December. Simone Rocha is another prizewinning star who isn't afraid to show her feminine side. Her SS17 collection also feature ruffled tulle dresses, puffed sleeves and broderie anglaise, paired with stompy patent wellies. Rocha is on an upward curve, too - she won British Womenswear Designer at this year's Fashion Awards, and has just opened her second store, on New York's Wooster Street.

Instant gratification

British heritage brand Burberry will stage its second "straight to consumer" show, combining men's and women's collections, on Monday February 20. The venue, Makers House, will also host an exhibition put together by the Henry Moore Foundation and Burberry from February 21. Open to the public, it will feature over 40 of Moore's sculptures, the February 2017 Burberry collection, and live events. It's the first show with new chief executive Marco Gobbetti at the helm, although his presence may not yet be felt: contractual commitments mean he will spend his first six months focusing on the brand's Asia-Pacific and Middle-Eastern business. At Topshop, too, around half the collection shown will be see-now-buy-now, and the remaining styles will drop in two phases in April and May 2017.

Comeback kids

The man forever associated with the figure-hugging Galaxy dress, Roland Mouret, will come back to London to show his collection here for the first time in 16 years. Since 2003 he has held his show in Paris, but he decided that the 20th anniversary of his brand is an auspicious time to return. He said, "I love that London is my creative home, and over half of my manufacturing base is in Britain — I wouldn't be able to do what I do anywhere else other than London. London is my home, it's where my brand has its heart and I'm excited to celebrate such an important milestone here." Hussein Chalayan, another Paris Fashion Week regular, will also show his Chalayan line in London. Born in Nicosia in Cyprus and educated at Central Saint Martins in London, Chalayan has explored ideas of cultural identity and migration through his label. So will he have something to say about Brexit?

Change of address

Last season the Brewer Street Car Park provided the event's main base, but now the action has moved to a new home: The Store Studios at 180 The Strand. The stark, arresting 1970s concrete building is now the hub for London Collections: Men, and has hosted catwalk shows from Christopher Kane, Roksanda and Thomas Tait, as well as exhibitions.

The decade-old designers

Fashion Week veterans might find it hard to believe that designers Erdem, Christopher Kane and Roksanda all recently celebrated 10 years of their brands, but they are now firmly established names. Expect Duchess of Cambridge-appropriate florals from Erdem, alternative power dressing from Roksanda, and quirkiness from Kering-owned Christopher Kane, who put crystal Crocs on the catwalk for SS17.

London Fashion Week runs from February 17-21

This article was originally published by the Financial Times
Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2017