We bump along sandy tracks. A red duiker darts away through dense bush. In a brackish lake near the sea, white egrets, flamingos (perching on one leg), herons and pelicans stand around, watched by a crocodile. We return to the lodge via a school Azura supports through its Rainbow Fund, which implements numerous environmental and social initiatives on the island. A village chief in a government-issue military-esque uniform (including shiny buttons and epaulettes) has finished a visit there and we give him a lift to one of the villages we pass en route, where tidy yards are demarcated with euphorbias.