Inside, some sense of a once immensely powerful kingdom can be made. Implements, pottery shards and Chinese glass beads are showcased. What is manifestly obvious here is not only great skill and wealth – but also the way in which this kingdom was connected to a massive trade network that extended to East Africa, Arabia and beyond. Then there is the gold! The kingdom was renowned for its gold-smithing; there are exquisitely crafted pieces of jewellery, necklaces, and, of course, the most famous artefact of all: the golden rhino – small and unexpectedly delicate when seen up close. Afterwards, we travelled to the park’s western section, to spend a night at the Limpopo Forest Tented Camp.