Contemporary fuses with heritage at Paarl’s Grande Roche

The Grande Roche Hotel in Paarl is something of an icon in the Cape winelands; an estate of whitewashed buildings and a gracious Cape Dutch manor house, with a history stretching back three centuries.

But the unveiling of the hotel’s refreshed Terrace Suites shows that leaning into heritage doesn’t have to mean you’re old-fashioned. Instead, the latest revamp neatly retains a handful of historic elements while introducing a thoroughly contemporary aesthetic.

“We wanted to update the interiors without losing any of the charm of a country hotel,” explains Theresa Britz, who owns the hotel with her husband, Hansie. “The idea was to use the original elements where we could, but bring in new textures and colour. We also wanted each space to be as versatile as possible, whether guests are relaxing with a book, working on their laptop or enjoying a quiet meal in the privacy of their suite.”

That balancing act was a job for interior designer Misi Overturf, who has found just the right balance between embracing the history of the hotel while introducing a more modern look and feel into these popular suites.

“I have a great love for heritage design,” explains Overturf. “My approach is to colour in between the lines. I love old things, and the stories behind them, and we found a nice synergy between both of those elements.”

That synergy means solid wood flooring instead of old-fashioned clay tiles, and bespoke banquettes to create cosy nooks. A curated collection of vintage art and collectibles is neatly balanced by striking contemporary light fixtures, framed by the bespoke fynbos-inspired wallpapers.

The new approach to décor is matched by a sea change in the hotel’s dining offering.

Though Stellenbosch and Franschhoek have long overshadowed Paarl regarding culinary adventure, that is beginning to change. There’s Faber at Avondale, and the stylish Brookdale Bistro under chef Gary Coetzee, while in town the refreshed Laborie is proving popular with locals.

Deft touch

And now the Grande Roche Hotel is upping the ante with the recent appointment of Christiaan Campbell as both executive chef and hospitality consultant. Campbell has helmed a long list of acclaimed winelands restaurants, from the elegant cuisine at Delaire Graff to farm-to-table cuisine at Boschendal. Most recently he guided the experience at Temenos, the much-loved retreat in the village of McGregor.

At Grande Roche Campbell brings a deft touch in the kitchen alongside an innate sense of hospitality. Though the hotel is often associated with old-fashioned fine dining, the experience now is a far cry from its days of silver cloches and white-linen napery.

Instead, a recent summer evening found me out on the terrace in shorts and plakkies — the distant mountains fading from burnished orange to pink — deciding which starter plate to try first. The pork pot stickers with a fragrant chilli and sesame dressing? Pea and ricotta agnolotti with crispy basil? The citrus-cured line fish was a given, before moving on to the main courses that tap into seasonality and local producers. And to drink? A glass of the new Grande Dame red blend, of course, picked from the vineyards in front of the terrace.

Campbell has done a fine job of overhauling the menu here, offering a contemporary take on country cuisine that hits the right balance of elevated dining without any sense of formality, creating a truly welcoming space. Little wonder it’s found no shortage of local fans, drawn into a hotel once seen as the preserve of well-heeled foreigners.

That is also thanks to Campbell’s new all-day menu of lighter plates. The salad of sun-ripened tomatoes with bocconcini and pickled cucumber is ideal for the last hot days of summer, or tap into open lasagne with slow-braised beef brisket when the weather cools.

Watching your wallet? The toastie of grilled chicken and red pepper relish on house ciabatta for 90 bucks is a steal. And that’s not something you can often say when dining out in the winelands.

Whether you come for a meal, or stay the night, there’s a new energy at Grande Roche … and the locals are invited.